My
first time to Asia and I was both excited and nervous before arriving. After a
confusing and sleepy first night in Jakarta I flew to Sumatra the next day,
following the Indian Ocean coastline and tracing the Indonesian islands of Java
and Sumatra in my mind. I don’t know why but these islands have always held a
mystical quality in my mind. Perhaps it was the thought of remote rainforests
with tigers and orang-utans surrounded by super-diverse coral reefs.
In
reality, the city of Bengkulu, which is the base from where I am working, is
one of the most boring and ugly cities I have ever visited (up there with
Derby). It is crowded, functional and without any unique features. Indonesia is
quite developed and between the bright-strobe lights of the supermarkets to the
fast-food restaurants I think I got a similar overload of modernity that I feel
when I get back to the UK, where I just want to run away to somewhere wild and
beautiful. Unfortunately there was a lot of planning to do with Bob and our
local contact Sean, which meant working from the hotel (where the standard
rooms have no windows!) and even when we were finally ready to start fieldwork
and get out to the reef we were thwarted by bad weather.
There
are two islands we are trying to investigate. One is Tikus, a small spit of
sand 4 miles off-shore from Bengkulu with 2km long fringing reef around it. The
other is 18mile long island called Enganno, 200 miles south in the middle of
the Indian Ocean. We tried getting to Tikus, but bad weather prevented us
getting out there. We set off to Enganno and sat for 3 hours in a very bumpy ferry
(even I felt sea-sick) and then turned around, being told it was too risky. We
tried one more time to get to Tikus and succeeded. It was great to be in the
water and see a new reef in a new place, but when we tried to get back the next
day to start fieldwork, after having decided on the study sites, the weather
got in the way again! One stressful week had passed with no data, eating rice
and prawn crackers three times a day and trying to navigate arrangements with
no language or control over the situation. In addition I was actually quite ill
with three different infections, which I had to blast with antibiotics. I was
very stressed and fed-up.
Finally
we attempted the ferry to Enganno again and succeeded! Our team included two
students from Bengkulu university, Mukti and Dede, plus Bob and Sean. We
arrived on the island at about 9am after leaving Bengkulu at 8pm the night
before, and as I woke up and looked out the windows I saw a deserted
tropical coastline with coconut palms,
white sands, rainforest behind and multi-shades of turquoise and blue hinting
at the reefs below. The island was much
bigger than I had thought, but apparently there are only 6000 people on it, so
most of it is uninhabited pristine rainforest. We were staying with a family
the Mukti knew well and were shown into their simple, but very comfortable
house, nestled between the mangroves and the rainforest right on the water’s edge.
It was idyllic and all my pent up frustration disappeared in moments. Not many
Westerners get to Bengkulu and even fewer to Enganno, which is evident from the
lack of English from the majority of people and fascinated stares I get
everywhere I go. I am probably the first person to have ever collected
ecological data on the reefs there. I felt very privileged and excited to be
working in this place.
So began
four blissful days of diving in tropical paradise. The reefs were spectacular,
the coastline was postcard perfect and the people we were working with were a
delight. I really had to pinch myself
and remember that it was real and happening. It felt like a major mile-stone in
my life. Here I was diving in one of the remotest more beautiful places I have
ever seen and being paid to be there! The past few years of work, study and
sometimes struggle in Kenya are paying off.
The
little fishing boat we puttered around the coastline in was owned and driven by
a guy known at Pat-Nur, from the sea faring Madurese people from the island of
Madura in east Java. They are known for their quick tempers, sharp tongues and
apparently their traditional dress is based on 17th century pirate
outfit. I loved Pat-Nur. He knew the water around that island perfectly, telling
me all the best spots for research. He understood what I wanted and didn’t mind
taking detours and stopping the boat at random. Most people in Indonesia, like
Kenya, are very indirect, withholding information so not to disappoint, not
explaining plans and easily offended direct instructions or questions. Not with
Pat-Nur I told him what I wanted (through a translator of course) and he told
me straight if it wasn’t possible. He was a real character.
The
reefs were in really good condition. I saw 16 species of butterflyfish in the 4
days of fieldwork there. In 2 years in Watamu I have only found 10. The
remotest site we went to had a lot of groupers indicating little fishing
pressure away from the small settlements. All the reefs had big fish, including
the endangered Humpheaded Wrasse (Cheilinus
undulatus), which I found in one spot. I only saw a small fraction of the
under-sea wonderland there. I could have stayed and studied it for a few years.
It
was with great sadness I left my happy host family and Pat-Nur and strong
desire to come back one day to this special place. The thought of Bengkulu and
all the stress of trying to organise boats and gear to do fieldwork at Tikus
was too much. In the end Tikus also went well and the weather stayed
reasonable. I enjoyed the dives, but the reef just wasn’t the same.
So
in the end I’ve seen the mystical and the ugly side of Indonesia and I’m sure
there are many more sides to see in this huge country. As ever, I hope that I
can see more of the remote, untouched places and also really hope that they
won’t disappear too soon.
My host-grandma cooking fish |
Typical meal with the research team |
Lunch in the jungle. Pat-Nur is on the right. Dive buddy Mukti on the left |
Nemo says hi! |
Hi everyone. Thanks for reading this blog, it got 45 hits yesterday when I posted this entry. Interestingly it got 25 hits from the US alone, but I don't think I know that many people in the US, or do I? Who are you lovely American readers and do I know you?
ReplyDeleteBest wishes,
Benjo
Not American but excited you're posting! Lots of love xx
ReplyDeleteSounds wicked! I'm heading out there in 2 months. How did you find your host family and boat driver? Any info is greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteThanks lance